Day 9 - Deep into Oregon
8th August 2019
After writing yesterday’s blog, we decided that we couldn’t just sit in the motel room (which is a bit grim) and let this be our first impression of southern Oregon. So a quick flick through the guide book informed us that we were in an industrial town that houses a huge fruit industry. Especially pears and grapes.
We also found that we were 15 minutes from Jacksonville. A former gold prospecting town and the oldest settlement in southern Oregon. The town is a national historic landmark due to the preservation of the buildings. We had a quick bite to eat and headed in. What a surprise! It was really like something from a western. The shops were closed, but there were a few bars open still, and we had a pleasant stroll through the town. Not a sight of a bum or a smell of cannabis the whole time. So we went to bed feeling much happier with Oregon.
We started today to the alarm clock. We have been getting to our final destinations too late, and most places to eat are closed. So today we decided to start early.
We set off from the Tiki Lodge with coffee on our minds. We stopped just outside of Medford for a Dutch Bros coffee. They are little drive thru places that look like windmills, and you drive up, order and drive away. Two coffees and an apple juice please!
Twenty minutes along the road and we were away from the sprawl of concrete run down buildings and onto Highway 62, which was a single lane highway following the River Rogue. We stopped at a beautiful spot called Shady Cove, and sat watching the river flow and some rowers expertly navigating it. So beautiful.
We followed this highway until we reached our first planned stop of the day – Crater Lake National Park. We queued up with the other cars at a small hut in the trees and paid our $25 to get in. We drove following the directions to the West Rim. Lots of cars were pulling in to the car park, which we tried, but it was so busy that we decided to leave and see if we could drive further along the rim and find an area to pull in. Less than five minutes along, there was an area with one car, and we pulled up behind it and got out of our car. We walked a few steps and saw the hugest, bluest, most awe inspiring expanse of water we have ever seen. It was breathtaking. We just stood, unable to really say much other than ‘wow’ over and over. Just trying to take it all in. The water looked like it had been dyed blue. We walked slightly further along and up a gravel path, and we were alone. Just us, and the lake.
Some information about Crater Lake – it was formed 7,700 years ago, when the volcano that was there exploded leaving just the base. The water caldera is filled by rain and snow. It is the deepest lake in the USA and the most pristine on earth. It is 2,148 feet deep. It is 6 miles wide. It looks like the most fabulous place to swim!
We hopped back into the car and drove on for ten more minutes, where we got a new view. There is a small island in the base called ‘Wizard Island’ and we were able to get more views of this.
The park must get pretty busy, but as the drive around it takes 1-2 hours the crowds aren’t an issue here.
We drove out of the park and headed on the 138 and 97 towards Bend, where we would be spending the night. We passed such unforgettable scenery – mountain ranges, pumice deserts, forests, blue sky – just wonderful.
We passed through some small towns, not worthy of a mention though. Namely, Chemult, Gilchrist and La Pine.
Two hours later, we arrived at our motel for the the night. LOGE, Bend. Think CenterParcs, but with style and for a fraction of the price. This has to be the best idea ever. Take an old crummy 1950s motel that is set in the woods. Paint it and the rooms in moody colours, add lots of beautiful wood. Kit the rooms out with stylish interiors and little extras that make your guests feel special. Fluffy blankets, a kit for roasting your own marshmallows, a bag of charcoal for your fire pit, hats, playing cards, a cool box, a folding table and chairs - all which can be carried around the site whilst you are there. And best of all - free bikes! So you can ride the trails that surround the motel. So clever. Oh, and the third bed? A hammock!
When we arrived there was a HUGE storm - torrential rain, that even stopped us from getting out of the car, so the bikes were not an option. We relaxed in the cute club house that sells posh coffees, beer and wine and plays chilled out music, and then decided that rain or not, we were getting on those bikes. And off we went, 10km trail of smooth paths with no traffic. We were almost the only people there - and we were often being raced by cute little chipmunks. The rain held off and we pedalled through the pine trees taking in lung fulls of the most amazing smelling air. The rain had really heightened the smell of the pines - I wish I could post a smell. Honestly, a 45 minute bike ride was such a highlight of this week so far.
Back to the room, and then a quick drive into Bend for dinner in a wonderful restaurant called Jackson’s corner.
We will sleep well tonight - full of mountain air and smiles.
