Day 7 - Mendocino to Eureka
7th August 2019
We took a walk into Mendocino this morning. The sun was out with it’s best hat on, and the sky was so blue.
We went to The Sunshine Cafe and had eggs with various add-ons - avocado, tomatoes, olives, cheese. When Andrew asked the server what kind of coffee she had, she said if we wanted nice strong coffee, we should go to the bakery next door and bring it in. Only in California! The coffee was the Red Eye - double espresso topped up with filter coffee. Pow!
We took a walk around the town; it was full of locals going about their day. We went to the Post Office to buy some stamps for postcards. It was the tidiest place ever, and they had rows and rows of PO boxes.
We were stopped by some locals who were raising awareness for Hiroshima Day. The lady was very much an old hippy, beautiful still, and I am always attracted to people that feel such passion for things that they would knock on doors or stand in the street. At least those that do it in a passive informative way. She explained that the US were still storing nuclear weapons, and were lying to the nation. We thanked her for the information, and she asked where we were from - when we said London, she said “oh, you guys have your own problems. That Boris man that beats up his girlfriend, but can be Prime Minister! But I guess we aren’t helping you any”. She asked about our trip, and I mentioned how lucky she was to live in Mendocino, which she agreed with and said that if people were going to destroy the earth, she may as well live there while it’s happening. I couldn’t agree more.
Yesterday, when on the road, we listened to local radio. It was covering the recent mass shootings, and how Trump’s speeches contribute to this kind of behaviour. We couldn’t find anyone on the radio agreeing with him.
We got into the car and started our drive north. The first stop was Glass Beach. Glass Beach is a small cove in Fort Bragg. It gets it’s name from the coloured glass that is mixed with the sand. It was a former dump site for local factories, and as the glass was dumped into the ocean, it has been washed back onto the beach, but smooth.
We walked along the top of the cliff and were disappointed to see that the path down to the beach was closed. Basically, due to visitors taking the glass, they have had to close the beach. So that was a bit disappointing to say the least. The coastline was stunning though, and we enjoyed the short walk.
Fort Bragg wasn’t very nice, so we didn’t stop. In fact, the guide book describes it as Mendocino’s ugly step-sister.
Back in the car to make our way to a town called Leggett. There were 26 miles of winding roads through the redwoods - and after about 10 I started to feel a bit sick. So we had to keep stopping to get some air! Sorry Andrew - but thanks for being such a patient driver.
Just as we got to the main highway, I saw sign that said ‘Drive Thru Tree’ 1/4 of a mile. Instant nausea cure. Quick as a flash, Andrew turned off and we were in the very short queue to pay $10 to drive through a hole cut in a tree. I used to have a Guinness Book of Records that had a car driving through a redwood tree, so I was keen to recreate this. It was SO cool. The Chandelier Tree, 315 feet tall, and we drove right through it!
After this little flurry of excitement, we set off for our final stop of the day, Eureka. On the way we stopped for ‘gas’ at a place called Garberville. Crikey! What a strange place. Lots of people who looked like they had not washed for a while. Signs in every shop saying ‘no shoes, no shirt, no service.’ We got the fuel, a drink and a toilet break (urgh) and got the hell out of there.
Final stop Eureka — we were totally drawn by the name of the place, but approaching it, we started to feel that the only good thing about it was the name. What a depressing place! The hotel is fine - it has a laundry, so we could at least wash our clothes, but the town is really sad. Lots of homeless, spaced out people.
After a read of the hotel information book, we learned that the town actually started life as a gold rush transport centre, and then a logging and milling town. It’s main economy is from logging still. However, it does have a hidden lovely part (it is well hidden), called Old Town. There are many fine buildings and Victorian houses that had started to fall into disrepair, and some community groups and historic California launched a project to give low cost loans to restore the old town to it’s original state. Two streets are now complete and have some quaint shops and restaurants.
There is also the Carson Mansion, built for a wealthy lumber baron. It is quite a sight.
We were surprised to find a great Italian restaurant, and had real food (fish, steak, pasta). We asked the waiter about the town and he described it as a work in progress! and explained that the town’s current fortunes are made from cannabis sales. Great claim to fame that one, and not in the guidebook.
We don’t feel entirely safe here, so are looking forward to moving on in the morning. In some respects, travel should be about contrasts and reality. Realising that not every town is like quaint and affluent Mendocino, but that so many more are like Eureka. People struggling to make ends meet or to just have a life that is a little bit fulfilling.
Night night from Eureka - at least we got some washing done x
