Day 11 - Portland to Astoria
10th August 2019
Best.Sleep.Ever.
Really comfortable night in Portland in the bed made for giants. We had been recommended by the concierge to try the Saturday Farmers’ Market that is held in the grounds of the university. It was only a block away, so off we set.
What a treat. Loads of different food stalls selling fresh fruit, veg, flowers, baked goods and also cooking food from fresh. Plus delicious coffee stalls. It was nice to see that locals were visiting the market to stock up on fresh local goods. Andrew had a Taiwanese breakfast bun (five spiced candied bacon, egg, wasabi cheese sauce, tomato and chives), I had a nutella crepe, and Oli had a pain au chocolate, followed by a punnet of strawberries.
We packed up the car and said goodbye to Portland. It’s been nice here - the people are friendly and laid back (although that could be the legal cannabis), and it’s clean. Less ‘bum’ per square than San Francisco.
We were heading back to the coast, for a day exploring the beaches and seaside towns.
Our first stop was Garibaldi. In Tillamook County (we didn’t stop at the town as it’s main industry is cheese), Garibaldi is named after Giuseppe Garibaldi (yes, the Italian general), purely because the town founder was inspired by him. As good a reason as any I guess. They have a lovely old steam train that they are trying to raise money to restore, and they are also a stop on the historic railway route - an old steam train that takes passengers on a scenic ride along the coast. Not for us today.
Next stop Manzanita. Described as a laid-back beach resort. The beach was stunning. Soft, golden sand and so wide. There were very few people around, despite it being a Saturday. The wind was great for the two kite surfers we saw. Andrew and Oli had a paddle, and I sat and watched the few people who were spending time unwinding.
Continuing north, we tried to stop at Cannon Beach - an exclusive beach resort, with restaurants and galleries. The streets and car parks were full, so we set off to the next resort along. Seaside. What a contrast. I guess you have to experience things to you hate to appreciate things you love, but this was my worst nightmare. Packed beaches, with rows and rows of people lying down, and arcades and food shops everywhere. It was so full of people - there were hundreds of them. We found a restaurant that was slightly outside the main thoroughfare, and had a nice lunch. We didn’t even step foot on the beach. We played one arcade game, and got an ice cream each, which was delicious.
There was a nice statue at the beach front commemorating the end of the Lewis and Clark trail. The Lewis and Clark Expedition was the first American expedition to cross the western portion of the United States. It started in May 1804 and finished in September 1806. It began in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, made its way westward, and passed through the Continental Divide to reach the Pacific coast. The expedition party was made up of US Army volunteers under the command of Captain Lewis and Second Lieutenant William Clark. The expedition was commissioned by the then president to map the territories before Britain and Europe could claim it. Clever! The also studied plants, animals and geography along the way. They returned with sketches and maps they had made.
There’s a lot less driving today, which is great. By 5pm, we were in Astoria - our final stop for the day. We are staying in the Atomic Motel. A cute 1950s remodelled motel. Full of kitsch touches. Sweet little place.
Andrew and I set off in search of a laundromat as we have no clean clothes left, and Oli stayed to make full use of the WiFi.
Andrew keeping a close eye on his smalls
We found Astoria to be the loveliest town. I got talking to the guy that works in the launderette, who moved from San Francisco 4 years ago and said he’d never go back. I have to agree with him that the further north we have travelled, the nicer people have been. Nothing is too much trouble for them, but their pace of life is slow and happy.
Back to my earlier point about cannabis. Since July 2015, Oregonians have been allowed to grow up to four marijuana plants on their property, possess up to eight ounces of usable marijuana in their homes and up to one ounce on their person. Recreational marijuana cannot be sold or smoked in public (but you can smell it being smoked in most streets). You have to be 21 to buy it. The shops selling marijuana are really common. It looks out of place. Walking down the street with a teenager makes me even more aware that the UK thinks they can do the same very soon, and I am not comfortable with it at all. But I am the wrong side of 40 probably to have an unbiased opinion.
Back to Astoria. After three loads of washing and drying has been done, we collected Oli and walked into the town. What a treat. The buildings are just beautiful, and they are being used. Hardly any empty shops, and they look like they are doing well. There is a local brewery too.
We spent an hour walking along the seafront, watching the huge container ships that had dropped anchor in the river, and then into the town, for a delicious meal (salad again for me) and then we saw a fantastic 1960s bowling alley. We looked in and they had some lanes free - so we spent an hour and a half having fun with some ten pin bowling.
It’s been a relaxing day, with much less time spent in the car.
